Everyone asks me how to do their makeup better, and I’m certainly no expert, but I’ll tell you what I’ve learned over a few years of doing it. And it all starts with foundation (or coverup, same thing).

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I’m going to fly in the face of modern dermatology here, but you’re going to want a good thick cream foundation. Everyone these days uses powders or liquids or whipped foundation because they are lighter and let your natural skin color show . . . and they don’t clog your pores. But they also don’t cover up stubble. And I’m not talking about “I didn’t bother to shave this morning” stubble, most modern foundations won’t ever cover “I just shaved 5 min ago” stubble. Unless you are lucky enough to have really fine hair, in which case ignore everything I say.

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Don’t fret too much if you need cream coverup, you probably don’t wear it often enough or long enough to worry about clogging your pores – remember most gg’s wear the stuff 12 hours a day every day! The only trick is finding the stuff (and in the right color). Look for makeup in a compact, not in a bottle or jar. And make sure it says “cream”. Neutrogena makes a pretty decent one if you need a place to start looking. Or you can try Ultima II which is available off of Amazon, but it’s a bit light on coverage for a cream.

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Colors have semi-standardized names, so you can guess a little bit, but your best bet is to go into a store and compare the color sticker on the package to the skin on your wrist (palm side). You’ll probably want something just a tiny bit darker than your skin if you’re in between shades, otherwise get the closest match. If you’re guessing from the names, here’s a basic guide. “Ivory” is the lightest shade and has little color in it. “Natural”, “Amber”, or “Nude” are light skintones with some color in them (not color as in tan, but color as in more yellow than grey). “Buff” and “Beige” are usually medium tones but with a bit less yellow (leaning towards grey). “Golden” and “Honey” are medium tones with color. “Tan”, “Almond”, and “Cocoa” are exactly what they sound like. And of course there are combinations of the colors like “Natural Ivory”. And then sometimes the colors just make no sense. If you’re just looking at the colors on your computer screen though, err on the light side – most people guess a little too dark, and because your screen is backlit colors will look brighter than they are in real life.

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Before you apply your new makeup, take a shower. Seriously. And wash your face, but don’t over-do it – you want to get any dead/dry skin off, but you don’t want to dry your face out and create new dead skin either. Stay in the shower for awhile with pleasantly warm water . . . makes a great time to shave your legs too. Now, if you want great makeup, apply a quick and thin coat of foundation while your face is still damp (not dripping, just damp). The moisture will keep the makeup spread out thin. Go cool off and dry yourself off, letting the foundation set up. Obviously don’t touch your face for a few min or stick it in a towel!

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When you’ve got your foundation in hand and are ready to apply it (this goes for the base coat if you put one on, or your “topcoat”), use a sponge or cotton pad – lots of coverup will come with a sponge anyway, which is great. Cotton pads may leave fuzz if you have course hair. “Brush” in the direction of hair growth as a general rule, unless you find a little hair that you missed when shaving in which case go over it in the opposite direction first and then in the direction of growth. Spread the foundation out thin at first, you don’t want cakes of it, and you can always go back over and add more if you really need. Keep it off your eyebrows and hair, because that just looks funny. Feel free to go over your eyelids and lips though, as that will help keep your eyeshadow and lipstick in place when you apply them overtop the foundation. And don’t forget the little places, like the undersides of your eyes, and underneath your nose. Take the foundation all the way down your neck, but spread it out *really* thin towards the base of your neck – you want it to cover any stubble down your neck, but the color needs to fade out to your natural skin gradually. Don’t rub it in, just gentle strokes in one direction.

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That’s it, all there is to it Ok, that plus a LOT of practice. But you’ll get the hang of it. And don’t worry, it may not look like much, but you’re well on your way to being one hot crossdresser